Bistro Brunch

Bistro Bis
15 E Street, NW
Washington, DC 20001
202.661.2700 Tel
http://vidaliadc.com/bistro/index.asp

Food: ☺☺ : Yummy
Service: the maître d' was extremely friendly and inviting, the waiter a bit stodgy but nice (if only he would have been more attentive to my empty glass of water)
Price: $30-$50, brunch $12-20
Hours of Operation:
Breakfast: Daily: 7:00am - 10:00am
Lunch: Daily: 11:30am - 2:30pm
Dinner: Daily: 5:30pm - 10:30pm


I have to admit, I'm not that familiar with the neighborhood around the Hyatt. Sure, I used to live on Capitol Hill, but the area between Union Station and Judiciary Square (pronounced "joo dish uh wary" by most metro train conductors) seems as nebulous as the moment in time between sleeping and waking to full consciousness. I believe the area exists, but this is based on pure cartographical faith. So to turn faith to knowledge, I set out with my friends Larry and David to scope out the hood. And what better way to get to know an area better than to have brunch on a Saturday morning?

David knew of a restaurant called Bistro Bis, located within eye distance of the hotel. "We might not be dressed well enough for it, but let's just see. We can at least look at the menu. You want to do that?"

I looked down at my wrinkled shorts and T-shirt and said, "Sure." What would it hurt?

The maître d' greeted us with a flashy smile and a cool green tie patterned with a subtle circular design. Attractively graphic, above most kitsch found on such accessories.

"Where'd you get that tie?" I inquired. I always seize the opportunity to ask someone where he or she found such a work of art, as I have all but given up on finding interesting, tasteful, and affordable ties.

"Nieman Marcus, at an outlet store." An honest answer, and he's thrifty. Good sign already.

We apologized for our appearance, and David explained our intention of at least looking at the menu. Without missing a beat, the maître d' said, "Well, I think you should eat here!" Perhaps if it were a busy evening he would have politely ushered us away, but he made us feel so at ease, we graciously acquiesced.


The restaurant was mostly empty, with a few pockets of people scattered comfortably throughout the main floor dining space. This restaurant has three stories and a bar, but because of the way it's divided up, it felt cozy. Perhaps it was the warmth of the cherry walls that added to the ambiance.

The brunch menu had a dozen options ranging from $12.75 to $18.00 (Sea Scallops Provençale). I have this thing were I like to try eggs Benedict in different restaurants when I travel. Typically tasty, sometimes executed poorly, eggs Benedict is never as satisfying as receiving it done right.

But this morning I couldn’t resist French toast with a description as sumptuous as this: “sliced brioche in hazelnut batter with caramelized bananas and vanilla creme fraíche and bacon.” Yowzers! How could I resist such a combination? Brioche with hazelnut? Batter up!!! Besides, Larry promised me a bite of his eggs Benedict, and that would suffice for a critique. In fact, we placed our order under the pact that we would each share a bite with each other. While waiting for the food, I excused myself to the restroom.

________________

WARNING: the following is what happened chronologically and does not involve food nor have any bearing on my culinary experience at the restaurant. I only think it amusing, but be warned, this story involves a restroom, after all!

________________

“Through the hotel lobby, stairs to my right, down a flight, turn right, down the hall, turn another right,” I repeated the directions the waiter gave me, fearing I might forget a step but thankful every turn was in the same direction. Bistro Bis is connected to Hotel George, and unfortunately they share a restroom tucked away in the basement found at the end of circuitous maze. I made it to the hall where the hotel’s gym is and heard what I thought was a shower running.

“Oh, the restroom must be part of the locker room for the gym,” I thought. A man in a suit, obviously part of the hotel staff, stood in the hallway where I was supposed to turn to get to the men's room. I paused as he glanced at me but continued to the door labeled “Men.”

The door swung open with a firm push and almost hit a guy standing near the vanity. My glance was brief, but I saw a homeless man, trousers halfway down without a shirt, water running at the faucet, towels spread out everywhere. Thankful for quick reflexes and periphery vision, I backed away from the half opened door as quickly as I had opened it. I heard a mumbling of some sort, the man telling me it was alright for me to enter. I cautiously opened the door, slid past the man (now with pants up) to the urinal and did my business. The man continued to mumble incoherently, and I tried to be as cavalier as possible given the circumstances. Was it too much to ask for to use the restroom and wash my hands before I eat?

At the stall I heard a second voice. The suited man in the hallway had entered and was instructing the bathing man. “Just leave the towels on the floor. We’ll take care of them.”

Was this some act of charity on the part of Hotel George? Was I witness to thoughtful generosity in the hospitality industry? Still recovering from the initial shock, I was warmed by the thought. I washed my hands and left the two gentlemen in the restroom to join my party of two upstairs.

________________

The food arrived all at once, and we dug in. I’m cautious when ordering food with bananas as an ingredient, even in a smoothie. Typically their distinctive flavor overpowers everything else, but the waft of banana, bacon, sugary maple syrup, and hint of hazelnut blended together harmoniously to create a smooth aroma with an equally balanced taste. What elevated this French toast above others was the brioche. Thickly sliced, crispy exterior, soft in the middle with a taste hearty but not overly rustic, the brioche seemed too fresh to be used for the original pain perdu. Lucky me.

A bite of the Croque-Madame made with the same brioche testified of this bread’s ability to soak in flavor. Something about the combination of egg, Black forest ham, and gruyère cheese in this dish seemed more than the sum of the parts.

Maybe it was the bold taste of the previous dishes or the history of transcontinental sampling that influenced my palette, but I found the eggs Benedict to be pleasant, not outstanding. The poached eggs were boiled with a soft center, and that made me happy enough.

At easily $15-$20 per person for brunch, I hardly call this dining on a budget. Overall, if you're searching for value, I'd give it my mark of approval. Two smiley faces and a Yummy.