A More Perfect Union - Quote of the Week

"If I am shot at, I want no man to be in the way of the bullet."

-Andrew Johnson

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Meridian Hill Park

16th Street between Euclid and Florida Avenues
1912-1935 Horace W. Peaslee; Mrs. Johnson B. Henderson, sponsor


Meridian Hill Park is everything a neighborhood park should be, if not quirky and somewhat bizarre. By far the most colorful description of this gem comes from the AIA Guide to Architecture of Washington, D.C., though there are online sources with more empirical information here and here. I hope you enjoy the author's subtle humor as much as I:



Construction of the park spanned two decades, time enough to allow for a surprising variety of architectural moods, motifs, and styles. Peaslee (1884-1959) wrote that he based the park's lower level, with its axial plan, 13 graduated pools, and cascading falls, on "the Pincian Hill of Rome." But, since he at various other times said he relied on the Villa d'Este and on Rome's Villa Medici for ispirazione, it might be best to call section one simply "generic Italian." The upper terrace is French: dead flat for some 900 feet despite the hill, it is centered on a broad grass mall with promenades and hemlock hedges all terminating in a bronze statue of Joan of Arc.

















Miraculously, this unique creation has survived more or less as Mrs. Henderson and Peaslee envisioned it: it has survived plots to build a replica of Old Faithful geyser in it, and it has survived - so far - the drug dealers and hooligans who have recently made it a favorite point of rendezvous. -Christopher Weeks



No wonder the park has become a haven for crime; it's big enough to get lost in and has an overabundance of architectural features incorporated into the landscape that offer the perfect hiding spot. I can't help but imagine this would make quite the outdoor arena for a good game of nocturnal hide-and-go-seek! (Dave, can we organize that for the conference?)















Above all, Meridian Hill Park is a public space for gathering and is safe by day. Since the 1950's people have come to dance to the beat of an acoustic ensemble on warm Sunday afternoons. Many come with a blanket to spread out on the grass, some with a book, others with a laptop. Some come for a leisurely walk throughout the park's winding paths and staircases. Some come for the view of the grand fountain or even a glimpse of the Washington Monument. While preservation repairs began in 2003, the park's disrepair lends to the informal atmosphere. Here, all are welcomed.




Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Food at 3 a.m.

Finding a place to eat isn’t hard. Finding a Good place to eat is a little harder, but finding a Good place to eat in DC at 3 a.m. in the morning is definitely a challenge. Luckily there is Annie’s Paramount Steakhouse. Located at 1609 17th St. NW, Annie’s is a perfect fit if you are in the Dupont neighborhood. It is open 24 hours on weekends and actually stays pretty busy all night (and you can get a window seat with a great view of all the boys walking by!!). It has great service-everyone is very friendly. Annie’s steaks cost between $20-$25, but generally a meal there ranges from $10-$15. Plus, my favorite part of Annie’s is the fact that they serve breakfast all day!!

Dupont also hosts Afterwords (café and bookstore) which is 24 hours on weekends, but the menu is not quite as great (although if you are going only for desert, Afterwords is the way to go-more choices!).

Monday, July 23, 2007

"She could sing anything --

folk, blues, pop, jazz, R&B, gospel -- and make it sound like it was the only music that mattered." Richard Harrington

Jazz to me was like mushrooms and seafood; I couldn't stomach them as a kid. I remember the first time I tasted a portobello as a twenty-something-year-old and couldn't believe a fungus could be so flavorful and meaty. It was a matter of maturity (my age) and preparation (thanks, Martha). A whole new gastronomic world opened up to me. I'm still waiting for my taste buds to warm up to seafood. And jazz, that often confusing mess of notes and rhythms, I could never wrap my soul around.

My coworker Melanie introduced me to Eva Cassidy four years ago when she popped in Songbird in the CD player at work. I have to admit, I wasn't totally smitten upon the first hearing, but the tamer songs sounded sort of folksy, which I could handle, and there was something about that voice that could instantaneously change timbre and slide from note to note so effortlessly that grabbed me. The more I listened, the more intrigued I became. Her voice drew me in.

A native to the DC metropolitan area, Eva never had ambition to sing center stage. She preferred backup vocal to lead singer and performed at local venues, including Blues Alley in Georgetown, but others recognized her talent and gave her the opportunity to record. Bone cancer took her life away when she was only 33, but she left us a small repository of brilliance.

I wish I would have been able to hear her sing in person. I have yet to visit Blues Alley and plunge myself into the jazz world, though it's on my list of things to do.

ABC's Nightline produce a brief segment on Eva's rise to posthumous fame. Eva's story is moving, and from the writings of those who knew and wrote about her, you can get a taste of the type of person she was. Listen to her signature song, "Somewhere Over the Rainbow", recorded at Blues Alley. Close your eyes. Listen to it until the very end. You'll get a sense what Richard Harrington meant. Whatever she sang, she made it sound like it was the only music that mattered.

Thanks, Eva. You've opened a whole new musical world to me.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Rats with Bushy Tails

Standing at the lectern, the summer intern extolled DC's lush parks. He was astonished that such a large city was so green, that nature wove itself seamlessly between brick, concrete and asphalt. Though I have no recollection what this had to do with his testimony, I can't forget his expression of delight when he said, "I was walking in a park near Union Station on my way to work, and there were even squirrels roaming around!"

Carolyn turned to me and said, "Those aren't squirrels. Those are rats with bushy tails!"

It was a standing joke. Sadly, it rings with truth, though my friend Ruth might disagree. She defends the bushy things as separate and distinct from the less-beloved rodents that scurry through the alleys in search of food at night.

DC's squirrels are everywhere, and they're accustomed to humans. Please don't feed. And above all, don't let their velutinous frock fool you: these cheeky creatures are not afraid to charge, so beware!


Friday, July 20, 2007

On a Friday Night

It's three in the morning. I’ve completed my 40 hours work week in the past three days. I was out until 5 a.m. yesterday and got to bed at 7 a.m. today. I feel like I’ve slept a total of about 8 hours in the last week... and I just ran a red light. Not because I didn’t see it, but because I’m so tired, that by the time it registered in my brain to stop, I had already passed the stoplight. I’m about ready to run any other red lights I come to and not just because I’m tired, but because the last two times I have stopped at a light I have actually had total strangers knock on my window and offer to pay me to drive them home.

It's three in the morning. The metro has stopped running and there are two dozen people on every corner trying to hail what must be the only cab in DC.

My advice… If you go out and don’t have a car, make sure you get back to the metro before it closes (3 am Friday and Saturday, midnight all other nights) or you just might be taking that unattractive man’s offer to go home with him, whether you like it or not.

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Top Ten Things to do in Washington DC

In my opinion these are the most best things to do in the city (at least until it gets late)…

10. NATIONAL ARCHIVES:
This might be a little anti-climatic if you saw National Treasure, but it is still great to see and learn some more history. Check out the “Letters to the President” section. A collection of comically entertaining letters actually sent from citizens to different presidents.

9. GEORGETOWN SHOPPING:
It’s a beautiful area with some interesting shops and good food. Plus it’s always fun to walk the C & O Canal.

8. ARLINGTON CEMETARY:
The changing of the guards is incredible. If time head over to the Marine Memorial next door (check out Flags of Our Fathers).

7. WALK THE NATIONAL MALL/TIDAL BASIN:
There are so many monuments and beautiful sites to see. It never gets old.

6. EASTERN MARKET:
Fire damage partially shut this down, but it is still up and running outside the building and across the street.

5. WHITE HOUSE PROTESTOR:
The White House is a must in DC and while you are there, talk to the two people who LIVE in front of the White House. Even if you think they are crazy, its amazing to hear what their story, especially the fact that they have lived in a tent in front of the White House since 1981 (longest standing 24 hour protest against violence).

4. DUPONT CIRCLE:
A must. Whether reading in the circle, browsing the shops or strolling down 17th street, this is a great area to spend some time (You may want to check out Lambda Rising).

3. SPY MUSEUM:
This would be interesting anywhere, but especially with all the government stuff around (see Breach first).

2. COUNTRY DANCING AT REMINGTONS:
There is something hot about two guys dancing together!

1. RUNNING THE NATIONAL MALL AT NIGHT: Absolutely beautiful and unforgettable.

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Metro! Metro! Metro!

Today seemed particularly difficult driving up Wisconsin Avenue to get to work. It was like picking the slowest line at the grocery store; I was always in the wrong lane. Traffic was heavy, and not minding oncoming vehicles, cars and pedestrians alike jumped out of nowhere to turn or cross the street.

Notwithstanding, I made it to work in decent time and in one piece. I parked and walked the length of the lot when I heard a shrill woman’s voice shout from an open car window, “I’m stuck in traffic and not sure where I am, so STOP BUGGING ME!!!” Her voice ricocheted off the buildings. She saw me, looked embarrassed, and hung up her cell. I wanted to shout out with an empathetic, “I hear ya!”, perhaps even while thumping my chest twice and extending a peace sign.

DC is a very drivable city. While I find motorists generally polite, there are a few tendencies (e.g. running red lights, blocking intersections) that at times make a person want to join in the frustrated, lost lady’s clamor, only with the addition of a few expletives.

For those of you traveling here in the fall, I recommend riding the Metro. Use it. Cherish it. Be thankful for what it is, and complain, if you want, of what it is not. It’s easy to comprehend and relatively inexpensive. Fares one way during rush-hour cost the most, typically less than $3.00, or you can purchase day passes.

If you are thinking of renting a car, you may want to reconsider. Refuse to metro? Taxi fare from DCA will put you back $18 plus tip. Save yourself the headache of driving and paying for parking.

I’m done. I’ll stop bugging you now.

Friday, July 13, 2007

Bistro Brunch






Bistro Bis
15 E Street, NW
Washington, DC 20001
202.661.2700 Tel
http://vidaliadc.com/bistro/index.asp

Food: ☺☺ : Yummy
Service:
the maître d' was extremely friendly and inviting, the waiter a bit stodgy but nice (if only he would have been more attentive to my empty glass of water)
Price: $30-$50, brunch $12-20
Hours of Operation:
Breakfast: Dail
y: 7:00am - 10:00am
Lunch: Daily: 11:30am - 2:30pm

Dinner: Daily: 5:30pm - 10:30pm


I have to admit, I'm not that familiar with the neighborhood around the Hyatt. Sure, I used to live on Capitol Hill, but the area between Union Station and Judiciary Square (pronounced "joo dish uh wary" by most metro train conductors) seems as nebulous as the moment in time between sleeping and waking to full consciousness. I believe the area exists, but this is based on pure cartographical faith. So to turn faith to knowledge, I set out with my friends Larry and David to scope out the hood. And what better way to get to know an area better than to have brunch on a Saturday morning?

David knew of a restaurant called Bistro Bis, located within eye distance of the hotel. "We might not be dressed well enough for it, but let's just see. We can at least look at the menu. You want to do that?"

I looked down at my wrinkled shorts and T-shirt and said, "Sure." What would it hurt?

The maître d' greeted us with a flashy smile and a cool green tie patterned with a subtle circular design. Attractively graphic, above most kitsch found on such accessories.

"Where'd you get that tie?" I inquired. I always seize the opportunity to ask someone where he or she found such a work of art, as I have all but given up on finding interesting, tasteful, and affordable ties.

"Nieman Marcus, at an outlet store." An honest answer, and he's thrifty. Good sign already.

We apologized for our appearance, and David explained our intention of at least looking at the menu. Without missing a beat, the maître d' said, "Well, I think you should eat here!" Perhaps if it were a busy evening he would have politely ushered us away, but he made us feel so at ease, we graciously acquiesced.


The restaurant was mostly empty, with a few pockets of people scattered comfortably throughout the main floor dining space. This restaurant has three stories and a bar, but because of the way it's divided up, it felt cozy. Perhaps it was the warmth of the cherry walls that added to the ambiance.

The brunch menu had a dozen options ranging from $12.75 to $18.00 (Sea Scallops Provençale). I have this thing were I like to try eggs Benedict in different restaurants when I travel. Typically tasty, sometimes executed poorly, eggs Benedict is never as satisfying as receiving it done right.

But this morning I couldn’t resist French toast with a description as sumptuous as this: “sliced brioche in hazelnut batter with caramelized bananas and vanilla creme fraíche and bacon.” Yowzers! How could I resist such a combination? Brioche with hazelnut? Batter up!!! Besides, Larry promised me a bite of his eggs Benedict, and that would suffice for a critique. In fact, we placed our order under the pact that we would each share a bite with each other. While waiting for the food, I excused myself to the restroom.

________________

WARNING: the following is what happened chronologically and does not involve food nor have any bearing on my culinary experience at the restaurant. I only think it amusing, but be warned, this story involves a restroom, after all!
________________

“Through the hotel lobby, stairs to my right, down a flight, turn right, down the hall, turn another right,” I repeated the directions the waiter gave me, fearing I might forget a step but thankful every turn was in the same direction. Bistro Bis is connected to Hotel George, and unfortunately they share a restroom tucked away in the basement found at the end of circuitous maze. I made it to the hall where the hotel’s gym is and heard what I thought was a shower running.


“Oh, the restroom must be part of the locker room for the gym,” I thought. A man in a suit, obviously part of the hotel staff, stood in the hallway where I was supposed to turn to get to the men's room. I paused as he glanced at me but continued to the door labeled “Men.”


The door swung open with a firm push and almost hit a guy standing near the vanity. My glance was brief, but I saw a homeless man, trousers halfway down without a shirt, water running at the faucet, towels spread out everywhere. Thankful for quick reflexes and periphery vision, I backed away from the half opened door as quickly as I had opened it. I heard a mumbling of some sort, the man telling me it was alright for me to enter. I cautiously opened the door, slid past the man (now with pants up) to the urinal and did my business. The man continued to mumble incoherently, and I tried to be as cavalier as possible given the circumstances. Was it too much to ask for to use the restroom and wash my hands before I eat?


At the stall I heard a second voice. The suited man in the hallway had entered and was instructing the bathing man. “Just leave the towels on the floor. We’ll take care of them.”


Was this some act of charity on the part of Hotel George? Was I witness to thoughtful generosity in the hospitality industry? Still recovering from the initial shock, I was warmed by the thought. I washed my hands and left the two gentlemen in the restroom to join my party of two upstairs.

________________

The food arrived all at once, and we dug in. I’m cautious when ordering food with bananas as an ingredient, even in a smoothie. Typically their distinctive flavor overpowers everything else, but the waft of banana, bacon, sugary maple syrup, and hint of hazelnut blended together harmoniously to create a smooth aroma with an equally balanced taste. What elevated this French toast above others was the brioche. Thickly sliced, crispy exterior, soft in the middle with a taste hearty but not overly rustic, the brioche seemed too fresh to be used for the original pain perdu. Lucky me.


A bite of the Croque-Madame made with the same brioche testified of this bread’s ability to soak in flavor. Something about the combination of egg, Black forest ham, and gruyère cheese in this dish seemed more than the sum of the parts.

Maybe it was the bold taste of the previous dishes or the history of transcontinental sampling that influenced my palette, but I found the eggs Benedict to be pleasant, not outstanding. The poached eggs were boiled with a soft center, and that made me happy enough.


At easily $15-$20 per person for brunch, I hardly call this dining on a budget. Overall, if you're searching for value, I'd give it my mark of approval. Two smiley faces and a Yummy.


Thursday, July 12, 2007

L'Enfant and the 5 Sided City Block

“Can you tell us where 505 C Street is?” The question broke stereotypes, as it came from the male driver; the girl in the passenger seat holding directions and an unfurled map looked hopeful but remained silent. It is not uncommon for tourists and locals alike to get lost and ask for directions in DC.

I was walking with my friend Carolyn on 7th Street over 4 years ago, just south of the Air and Space Museum. This was my new city, and I was prepared to give as simple and clear directions as possible. To be honest, I get nervous when motorists ask for directions at a red light not because I might fail to know the address, but rather because the destination is so far removed and the path to get there so convoluted from where they are that I would need the time of at least 3-4 red lights to communicate the course. Yes, a minimum of 3-4 red lights!

But 505 C Street was just around the corner. I could handle this. I told them within a few turns how to get there. They looked relieved, the light turned green, and they sped off down the street.

“I wonder why they want to go there? Is anything even there besides L’Enfant Plaza?” I asked. After a slight pause Carolyn and I looked at each other with recognition. “Ahh, I forgot to ask which quadrant they were looking for!” I might have blushed from embarrassment.

Now I never forget. The first piece of information you need to know when determining where you are or where you want to be in DC is identifying the quadrant. If you drew a plus sign on a map with the node on the Capitol, you would divide DC into four quadrants (see fig. 1). Appropriately named by their cardinal direction, North Capitol, East Capitol, and South Capitol Streets do just that, with the Mall to the west making up the final arm. That’s Mall with a capital M, home of the Smithsonian (though not all museums are located here) and a smattering of memorials, including the Washington Monument and the Lincoln Memorial.
Addresses thus come with quadrant identification, even if the street fits snuggly within one quadrant without crossing over to another (e.g. Wisconsin Ave, NW). The Hyatt Hotel is west and north of the Capitol, so it gets the NW designation. As an aside, the NW is the largest and wealthiest quadrant.

Numbered streets run north-south and radiate from the Capitol (see fig. 2). Lettered streets run east-west and begin with A near the Capitol (see fig. 3). After the alphabet has been exhausted, street names take on two syllable words (Belmont, Clifton, Euclid...), and once the alphabet has run its course, three syllable words begin the alphabet again (Allison, Buchanan, Crittenden...).
Main avenues are typically on diagonal streets and are named after the 50 states (or other random names - see fig 4.) Diagonal streets get to exist wherever they very well please, are scattered throughout the city, and offer several options to drivers to get from A to B. But driving presents a whole other set of issues, one way streets and confusing circles being the least of every driver's concern. It's those roads that change traffic direction depending on the time of day that'll getcha! But I digress...
While these are general rules, they can and will be broken. Legend has it that the city's layout was designed to confuse any future enemy who would invade the streets of DC. If that wasn't L'Enfant's intent, it is working nonetheless. What seems to be a regular grid, often is not; simply going "around the block" loses meaning when four turns doesn't complete the revolution. If you get lost, just remember to know which quadrant you want before asking a stranger for directions – you’ll be three quarters of the way there!